Day 109 - Last Full Day in Fiji

We managed to get up and make it to breakfast before it finished at 09:00 and then we had to check out. We didn’t have to walk very far, probably about 30 metres or so, until we reached Bamboo backpackers which would be our final night’s accommodation.

After check in we had to sit around a while until the room was ready but this was ok as we finally got some free Wi-Fi to abuse, along with the sun and our books to keep us content until we could get the room.

After dumping our things a very lazy and unproductive afternoon ensued which neither of us was complaining about, especially when we’d soon be in the big cities of the USA.

We went back to last night’s hostel for tea and a beer and then had a chilled out little evening back at Bamboo.

Day 108 - Leaving Mana

We were rudely awakened at about 08:00 by a staff member ringing our bure phone. On answering Danny was informed that our water taxi company had called the reception here and told them they were fully booked and we’d now have to get back on the resort’s large boat with a charge of 108 Fijian dollars each as opposed to the water taxi’s $65 each. Danny informed the guy that this was not the case as we had booked the taxi two days ago and confirmed it twice to make sure. The staff member assured Danny they were still fully booked and so Danny simply told him that all was fine and not to worry, then he put the phone down and we snoozed for a little longer.

After checking out we made our way back to Mana Lagoon and said “Bula!” to our friends from there. Being their ever friendly selves they let us have what was left from breakfast which was kind of them. We confirmed the boat hadn’t cancelled on us and then joined one of the young ladies to do some coconut jewellery making. Corrie wanted a bangle and a ring so we set about making the two items; all the while chatting to the staff and waiting for the 11:00 taxi.

At 12:00 we said our goodbyes and promised to return if ever back in Fiji before wading out to the speedboat where our backpacks had already been carried aboard. As the boat cruised away we waved goodbye to folk gathered on the beach and the island that had made us happy and shown us the stark contrast between two completely different worlds.

Us with one of the crazy staff from Mana Lagoon

An hour and a half or so later and we were back at the mainland and off down the street to our accommodation (after Danny had popped to a cash machine to get some money to pay the taxi that is!)

We checked in to our cheap but very nice hostel and then made straight to the benches in sun where we spent the rest of the afternoon. We also finished off another coconut ring that Corrie had brought with from the island before having a very filling tea from the hostel’s restaurant.

After tea we decided not to spend the night drinking and spending our money and so went back to the comforts of the air-conditioned room.

Day 107 - Last Day of Luxury

We got up fairly early to make our way down to our old friends’ place where we could check our water taxi back to Nadi was definitely sorted for Friday. The staff here were more than happy to see us and we spent some time chatting with them before heading back up the beach to the water sports centre at the resort. From here we grabbed our hire snorkels and flippers (for free) and then made a half hour walk to Sunset Beach – apparently the best place to snorkel on the island.

We donned the flippers and made our way, very cautiously due to the slippery rocks, out into the water. The snorkelling lasted all of 15 minutes before Danny decided to head back to the beach as his goggles leaked causing him to constantly have to resurface. He saw a fair few tropical fish here though so wasn’t too bothered. Corrie soon made her way back too as she was scared that sharks might get her!

We then thought we’d walk along the coastline until we got back to the pool area which was a good walk until Corrie’s second pair of flip flops broke and, on offering his to Corrie, Danny then had the do the rest barefoot. This would have been fine if it was all sand but there were the sharp and very hot rocks to get over which resulted in a very slow paced and sweaty walk.

The cool waters of the pool were a blessing when we finally made it back there and here is where we spent the next few hours. After this we had to drop off our gear back at the centre.

We went back to the bure and ordered room service once more for our tea before strolling back down to the backpackers for dinks and a chat with whoever was there. This turned out to be not very many as they were all away dancing for the rich people of the other, very expensive, resort. We still had a drink here and sipped them both in one of their huge hammocks, chatting and looking up at the starry, clear night’s sky. 

After our drinks we made the way back to our luxury bure for a relatively early night.

Day 106 - The Other Side of the Coin

We got up and had breakfast and then it was time to say our goodbyes, though this wasn’t really necessary as we knew we’d venture back here before we left the island. A couple of the staff carried our big backpacks the short walk to the resort’s entrance where we were then handed over to Mana Resort staff.

The resort is massive and we had a 5 minute walk just to get to reception. From here we were passed to a Japanese lady (the resort is owned by Japanese) who then passed us on to an English speaking Fijian who gave us an introduction to the resort and also got us both a welcome drink. The difference between the two styles of accommodation is basically like comparing an old used car to a brand new model from a dealership – crazy. Obviously the resort had all the essentials: pools, spa, laundry service, a chapel, an a la carte restaurant, a buffet restaurant, sports centre, coms centre, etc etc! Our room was on another level also; we opened the door to a huge air conditioned room complete with: our big comfy beds, furniture including sofas and tables etc, tea and coffee making facilities, ironing facilities, a fridge, the ever essential emergency torch, and a fancy bathroom with a very impressive private outdoor shower (yes, private and outdoors!) It was bizarre stepping into this place after where we’d been the past 2 nights, and again it made us think about how lucky and how different our lives are in contrast to lots of Fijians’ lives. We dumped our things and checked out the rest of our bure.

At the pool and on the sun loungers is where we then spent the rest of the day, basking in the glorious heat of the Fijian weather. Danny also had a stroll to one of the beaches by the resort to check it out and was delighted to see the, picture perfect, tropical island vista of a clean and sandy beach with the clear blue waters lapping gently against the shore and the palm trees lining the coast line.

Needless to say, everything is very expensive here in comparison to the rest of Fiji and we were not up for entertaining their wallets so we kept it as cheap as we could here. For our tea we ordered room service and got 2 pizzas along with a can of coke with this coming in at a fraction of the price of if we’d eaten at either of their restaurants. After this rather nice tea we spent the remainder of the evening reading and chilling out in the room. We also realised that we miss the company of the Mana Lagoon accommodation; both their entertainment and talkative staff.

Day 105 - Coming to Grips With the Fiji Way

A large party had erupted last night as a kind of leaving do for five lads who’d been guesting here for 10 days. Thankfully the only disturbance we noticed was a random lad coming into our room in the early hours, slowly making his way towards the bed as Corrie uttered a scared whine alerting Danny to turn over and see the lad reaching out towards the bed. The guy noticed Dan and seemed to come to, exclaiming “Sorry sorry sorry” as he backed out of the room! Thankfully he was one of the lads leaving later on!

The heavens opened and the morning and early afternoon were dominated with showers and so we were stuck indoors until about 14:00. Luckily the staff here really do make an effort and try to make you feel welcome; often plonking themselves down beside you to ask how you are and what you’re up to etc.

After the rain we decided to ask one of the guys to show us the quickest way to the other side of the island. He led us through another backpackers place and some of the island village, up over a hill and then directed us to make our way down the other side and we’d reach a beach from where we’d be able to follow the coast back around to the hostel. We emerged onto a gorgeous beach and completed the lovely walk back around to our accommodation, reflecting on Fiji as we went. We both agreed that we’d started to get into the Fiji way and didn’t feel so isolated from it now. We also talked about the very simple lives out on the islands, along with the very basic accommodation for the locals who inhabit them. Later this evening we would witness a child pulling along a smaller toddler who sat in a decapitated plastic container like a sledge through the sand. It’s this simplicity that really brings home how insignificant a lot of modern technologies and fashions etc are; along with how spoilt and ungrateful  most children are in developed countries – we had a rant!

After tea we were treated to a kava drinking ceremony in the traditional Fijian way. Kava, not being a fizzy wine as we both thought, but a drink that comes in a powdered, almost dust-like in appearance, substance in small bags. We all gathered around a large wooden kava bowl and one of the guys produced a sock-like pouch to which he added a few bags of the ground roots before the bowl was filled with water. The pouch was submerged and seemed to act as a filter for the cava as the water began to rapidly change from clear to a very murky looking, brown fluid. It did just look like dirty water but we weren’t going to be rude and so watched as he explained the method of drinking. Each of us would be offered a coconut cupful of the liquid and, before we took it we would clap once and say “Bula” (greeting) and then must down it all (it’s considered rude otherwise.) We would then clap three times and hand the shell cup back. We both agreed on one thing: kava is pretty nasty, really just tasting like you’d imagine a muddy puddle to taste, with grainy bits an’ all! It would appear that everyone else echoed this thought… including the Fijians!

After this and some card games we went to bed, rather sad to be leaving this friendly place, though glad at the same time that we’d be going just along the beach to a luxury resort in the morning!

Day 104 - Shenanigans

Fiji Time: Basically the Fijians’ complete lack of a sense of time; If they say they’ll be somewhere at 09:00 this can mean anywhere from 09:00 to 11:00 in reality. This was explained to us by a very embarrassed Fijian citizen on our first day.

Well last night was eventful. At about 01:00 we both stirred from our slumbers and Danny got up to investigate the noise. Outside our rooms there was lots of shouting and banging on doors so Danny moved closer to our door to try and figure out what was being said. He’d put it down to drunks just trying to annoy everyone, though as he was about to open the door to shout at them he heard someone say something about a fire. There was a loud knock at the door and Danny was greeted with a Fijian holding a torch who, quite calmly, said: “I’m very sorry to disturb you but the hostel next door is on fire so could you please make your way outside the building.” The man then moved on to the next room. Danny then relayed this to a very disgruntled looking Corrie and, mainly due to the very relaxed manner in which it was said: casually got dressed, threw the important stuff into our daypacks, and then made our way down to the small car park at the front of the hostel.

We joined lots of other confused tourists as nothing appeared to be wrong at first glance. After walking just to the corner of our hostel and looking down the alley to next doors’ block it was immediately clear how serious the situation was; almost the whole top floor of next door was ablaze.

We stood around for about 20 minutes or so and watched as a few people, backpackers and staff, made vein attempts to douse the flames. Eventually the fire service arrived; it would seem that even they adhere to “Fiji Time” law! They backed into the drive and look especially displeased that they could see no sign of a fire from where they stood and were very close to driving off again when most of the crowd urged them to the alleyway to look.

Another minute passed and you could almost see the slow realization creep onto their sleepy faces. We wouldn’t say that they sprang into action but they did start to move; it would seem that fires are quite rare here as what followed was a comedic shambles of organized fire fighting. Many shouts of “ON ON ON!” then “OFF OFF OFF!” were passed between firemen and firewomen in a peculiar method of controlling the single hose’s water flow. They would quench the flames then promptly shut off the water and leave that room in belief that all was now well before running back to it with shouts of “ON ON ON!” in shock that the blaze had taken hold yet again. Due to there being just the one fire engine, more time was dwindled by them having to drive to the other side of the hostel to fight the fire from that side and then return back to repeat the process on our side.

Amongst this bizarre show we started chatting to a couple of lasses who, it turned out, had managed to escape the fire early as they were in one of the rooms next door to the one where the fire originated from. Their tale involved them being quite lucky to escape early on, as had all the other guests at that hostel. They did tell us of the other couple next door to the start of the fire and they’d said that a person walked into their room, then left and went into the empty room next to theirs just before the fire started… creepy.

After a couple of hours the fire seemed to be as good as out, though we’re sure that almost every other fire fighting team in the world would continue to douse the ashes long after the flames had gone – not here though, and off they went. Off we went back to bed too.

We were up early enough for breakfast and then sat on the beachfront cafe with our bags waiting for the 09:00 water taxi.

We were departing the shallow waters with a few others in the small speedboat at about 10:30 and just in time to see the huge thick clouds of smoke rising as the fire took hold once more!

We finally hopped off the boat and into the shallow waters of Mana Island where we were led to our budget accommodation. Once inside the Mana Lagoon backpackers we were sat down and all the staff gathered to sing us a welcome song. This was very nice and what followed was an introduction to the “family” and the hostel. It’s a strange kind of living they have and it was very hard for us to get this thinking into our heads at first; which is why we were both feeling equally unsure of what we were doing here. It almost left us feeling uncomfortable, though this was nothing when we finally got to check out our “private room”.

Before us was a bed in a den-like room, bodged together with: large gaps in the door frames, see through curtains, and no locks on the door. Round the corner of the bed was a sink, then after that a shower (well a tap that let cold water flow from a pipe jutting out of the wall,) and then a toilet at the end. “Oh well” we thought, let’s just make the most of it and embrace this way of living as it’s only for 2 nights.

We then had lunch, set to be at 13:00, at 14:30 and were able to chill out for the rest of the day, in the sun, before having our evening meal (an hour later than planned) and then getting an early night due to last night’s shenanigans.

Not very Fijian weather

Day 103 - Too Good to be True?

We slept in a little then made our way down to the beach, which didn’t take long as the beach is right outside the hostel’s café. Here we sunbathed for a while before the heat took its toll and we made our way back to the room.

Danny decided, in all his wisdom, that, because the weather would be bad in Nadi for the rest of our stay, we should look to spent more time on Mana Island where the weather is set to be sunny. Danny located an “awesome deal” on a fancy hotel using a website that offered a room for half of the normal rate. After comparing with other sites and this one being the clear winner he went ahead and confirmed it… Only to then realise the small print. The bookings on this site are exclusive of surcharges and taxes etc and so once these were added the price was bumped back up to what all the websites were offering! Danny was not a happy chappy and could not cancel either due to the fact that the small print was there to read and we would lose half of the money if we did cancel… Oh well, two nights in a posh hotel it is; just with no food!

After sulking for a while Danny came around and then we both went down for some cheap food.

Moral of the day – Always read the small print. Or. Don’t book anything after too much time in the sun!

Day 102 - Farewell New Zealand

Again, we were up early and off by 10:00 to drop off the Breezer. This all went relatively smoothly and we were soon been dropped off at the airport by a free shuttle bus.

The flight etc went well also and we were soon touching down in Fiji.

After collecting our bags we were asked by a lady if we’d like some information about where to stay etc and, seeing as we had no idea about where or what we were going to do in Fiji, we agreed to listen to her. She took us to her office where we sat for ages trying to decide on what to do; though many of the places we tried to book were already fully booked. We managed to leave with: a place to stay for the night and a free shuttle there, a water taxi to Mana Island and two nights’ accommodation and all our food for a backpackers’ lodge on the Island.

At Smugglers Cove we checked in and then went for some food - two very fake looking pizzas which weren’t particularly appetising but were eaten nonetheless.

After tea we went straight to bed.

Day 101 - Last Full Day in the Wonderful New Zealand

Not a very productive day this one.

We were up and off by 10:00 and then made the few hours’ drive up to Auckland, stopping for lunch along the way, where we found the Top 10 Holiday Park to stay at for the night.

We didn’t really do much here and most of the time was taken up with packing and sorting the van out for its return in the morning.

We made a hearty tea to use up the remainder of our food then got an early night.

Day 100 - More Geothermal-ness

We allowed ourselves a little lie-in today but not much as we still had things to do on our last proper day here.

We realised we had very little food left, including milk and so decided to pay a last visit to a supermarket, though on the way Danny spotted Burger-Fuel which ended up being our breakfast/ lunch for the day… whoops!

We did then go to the shop and also fuelled up the van on the way to our next stop – the Te Puia geothermal park. This park is the most active geothermal park in NZ and we thought we’d have a look around.

We spent about four hours here, one of which was spent chilling on the top of a large rock waiting for three of the geysers there to go off. We saw two of them but were holding out for the big one – the Pohutu Geyser which did finally go off after about an hour’s wait. It was more impressive that the other two, really because it blasts higher than them and it was worth the wait.

We then moved on and wandered off the look at yet more mud-pools, geysers, hot springs, and craters etc before paying a little visit into the Kiwi House here. In the very dark room we watched a lone kiwi rummaging, in its odd little way, for insects etc and Danny had to practically drag Corrie away from these strange creatures she adores so much.

After Te Puia we went back to camp to make use of the free Wi-Fi for a while before heading into town for tea. After much talk about our budget and all the issues surrounding it we decided to have a blow-out and went to Mac’s Steaks where we each got a three course meal of excellent quality along with a bottle of sauv-blanc - ha!

Day 99 - Geothermal Areas and a Maori Evening

We got up and left camp early to go and collect our tickets, then drive up to the famous Lady Knox Geyser at Wai-O-Tapu. The geyser goes off at 10:15 every morning… with the help of a special catalyst (the geyser would go off of its own accord every one to three days.) A huge crowd gathered to watch the show which was quite impressive and lasted quite a while too.

Everyone then drove back down the road and parked up to go into the Wai-O-Tapu geothermal park. We followed suit and were soon walking along the 3km of pathways that would take us to all the points of interest in the place. We saw a lot more steam and craters, though we also saw much more here; we could see: sulphur caves, sulphur mounds, mud pools, and waters and rocks of varying colours due to the mineral levels in them ranging from oranges to purples and greens.

The last pool we saw was called the Devil’s Bath and its colour was the most intense lime green. We each took photos but none of the digital cameras could capture the zingy vividness of the pool; Corrie did take a snap on a film camera that she’s sure will have bested the digital snaps.

After Wai-O-Tapu we made a quick stop at the mud pools up the road; a very therapeutic little visit watching and listening to the bubbling and plopping of the boiling mud.

We then went back to the campsite to leave the van and walk into town. In town we went to a great place for lunch – The Fat Dog café which offered great meals to suit all tastes. We made short work of our hearty meals and then wandered around the town a little and also went and sat by the lake for a while too.

After getting some info from the local i-site we went back to camp and decided to book an evening at one of the Maori Villages. Danny was unsure about doing this as he thought it would be cheesy and tacky but Corrie and the receptionist assured him it would be great.

We got picked up and taken to the Mitai Maori Village at about 17:45 and once there were led into a large marquee-like room with about 16 tables all capable of seating about 12 people each. We took a seat at our assigned table and got some drinks in! Once the room had filled and some of the guests had gotten to know each other a little our host for the evening began. The talk was about what would happen etc and was quite a humorous spiel.

Then we went to check out the hangi food being unveiled; though before any of us could eat it we had to go on a short walk down to the river. Here we lined the banks in the dark and waited. The chanting grew louder and the lights became brighter as a huge waka (canoe) filled with about nine scantily clad tribal Maori’s paddled hard into view. The sight was quite impressive and quite a moving show; the warriors back-paddled and then advanced once more before disembarking their waka and disappearing into the trees.

We were then led to a seating area under a huge canvass marquee and once we were all seated we were asked to remain quiet during the opening performance. What followed was some very intense, verging on intimidating at times, moving and powerful performances by the whole tribe (who were all actors.) They all did tribal dances and hakas, along with demonstrating: rituals, weapons, tools, and dances etc of their ancestors. The whole 40 minutes or so was not cheesy at all and captured everyone’s attention for the whole time – especially the very passionate haka.

Once finished here we were ushered back to the food hall where all the hangi contents were now out, along with other foods, in a buffet like fashion and everyone was instructed to help themselves to as much as they could eat… and we did. The food was great, though we ate way too much of it and it was soon almost over. 

One more thing remained and that was a half hour walk through the forest of glow worms where were learned of more Maori ways and traditions.

The whole evening was entertaining and fun, and Danny left full and happy that he’d attended!

Day 98 - Our Two Year Anniversary

We dragged our still aching bodies out of bed early even though we didn’t have to leave until 12:00. This was because we had free use of all (bar the private ones) the hot pools and we intended to make use of them. We started in a lovely pool which we had all to ourselves and relaxed here for a bit. This pool had a lovely view though the temperature was still just 35 degrees as the hot water had not yet mixed with the rest of the pool’s supply. We left this one and went in search of a warmer one – and we found one; at about 41 degrees we made ourselves comfortable in the “sit and soak” pool which, yet again, we had all to ourselves! This pool was lovely and we soaked our muscles in here for a good hour or so before the heat was just too much and we sought out cooler waters. We found a nice little pool just right for the two of us and so spent the next 45 minutes or so relaxing in there.

As the clock neared 12:00 we thought it best to get out and shower, then head over and do the short eco walk on offer before we left.

We then drove up to Rotorua and found a campsite to base ourselves at for the next few nights and here we decided to chill out for the rest of the afternoon.

For our romantic evening meal we walked down the road into town where we found a stone grill restaurant. Here we both ordered three courses each, the main of which we’d picked the same – a mixed grill served on a hot stone along with veg. These were gorgeous and the meats were cooked to perfection, mainly because it was us who’d cooked them using the immensely hot stone. All three courses were devoured, along with a lovely bottle of rose wine. This made for a perfect end to a great day.